Friday 7 December 2012

Staying On Top


This past year has been an extremely difficult time for me.  Besides the obvious physical hurdles I've faced, it's the mental side that I'm really talking about here. November 2011 I was in PB shape, about to embark on a 3 month climbing-centric trip. I had succeeded in being selected for the senior GB climbing team and I felt ready and excited to participate in some World Cup comps in Europe.  And within the blink of an eye (and a sickening crack of the knee) it all came to a grinding halt.

As the months have passed and my routes on 8a have been dropping off, it has been a massive challenge to keep myself from feeling totally disheartened and despondent.  My strength and fitness have fallen away, along with my presence in the climbing scene, and it feels as though all my hard work and dedication has gone to waste.

But one can’t wallow in a pit of despair forever, and although I wasn’t able to climb, I was able to do some fingerboarding and campusing.  I’ve built a little frame in my garage with my two fingerboards mounted on, but it didn’t take long before the grips became too comfortable, even after adding weights, and I was seeking ways to make it more challenging.  Courtesy of Metolious, I added pairs of screw-ons which really gave my fingers a good work out.  After 6 weeks my fingers were stronger than ever and I was hanging off grips, with added weights, that initially I couldn’t even get established on.

Injuries come and injuries go, some take longer than others, and some take longer than they should.  But I believe if you keep your mind strong and thoughts free, nothing is impossible.  This year was not my year, but who knows what next year will bring.

I would like to say a massive thanks to my sponsors, Evolv and Metolious, for sticking with me despite my injury and the discouraging prognosis for getting back climbing again.  I may not have ticked any significant routes this year, but next year I’ll try to do you proud.


Saturday 3 November 2012

What's at the top?



Climbing is a difficult thing to explain to someone who doesn’t climb.  They see it as an attempt to get to the top of some arbitrary route, and can’t understand why you would want to.  But it’s so much more than just the route.   

For me, climbing is freedom.  It starts with open skies and fresh air, gentle breezes and warm sun, sitting around fires chatting with friends that feel like family.  Then there’s the physical movement, like a dance that needs to be executed with perfection, the concentration and mental hurdles that must be overcome to achieve absolute commitment.  And finally there is satisfaction, a tired body and a clear mind ... complete contentment.

Karen Varga, Factor 15 (7c+), Rocklands, South Africa

Friday 31 August 2012

Can I have another piece of chocolate cake?

 It’s Friday evening and I head round to my mates to watch a movie.  They order pizza for dinner, and the beers have already been cracked open.  Hmm, simple carbs, starch, melted cheese and saturated fat.  The little goodness my pizza does offer, in the way of 4 thin slices of green pepper and olives, has been grilled to a crisp and soaked in melted cheese.   Everybody digs into their pizza with great gusto and I wonder if I’m the only person in the room thinking these thoughts.

Don’t get me wrong, I enjoy a treat like pizza, fish ‘n chips and Ben & Jerry’s every now and again, but the point is that it is a treat, and when I have it I am conscious of the little good it’s doing my body.  It’s not even about keeping trim, although that does play a part, but mostly about giving my body the right things it needs to keep it healthy and happy.  

I recently read a book called “Foods That Fight Cancer”, and besides teaching me about the way in which some foods, or the particular molecules and substances in the foods, can actually help to prevent or halt the progression of certain cancers, it enlightened me as to the value of good food.  When we’re kids we were told “eat your carrots, they help you to see in the dark”, but as adults we almost seem to have forgotten those lessons, or think they don’t apply to us anymore.  There is a lot of focus on vitamins and minerals, and so many of us take substitute pills for these and feel that we’ve ticked all the right boxes.  But there is so much more that fruit and vegetables provide that a pill cannot.  

My new mindset is along the eastern attitude to eating which is that you eat for health, opposed to the western approach of eating purely for pleasure and fuel.  This doesn’t mean that I don’t have the occasional naughty McDs or a fat slice of chocolate cake, but I’ve changed my diet to include so many more vegetables and fruit, complex carbs (e.g. brown rice, quinoa, and sweet potato) and good fats (e.g. nuts, olive oil, avocado).  

An Olympic athlete takes their diet seriously, they ensure that before, during and after a training session they are giving their body everything it needs to recover, adapt and be ready for the next training session.  However the general mentalities of climbers tends to be quite the opposite – push your body to great limits, but eat whatever you can get your chalky hands on.  We expect so much from our bodies, and complain volubly when things go wrong, but we don’t think about giving back to our bodies!

It often comes down to education and advertising, for instance the belief that a bowl of pasta is a healthy meal.  Sorry to be a bubble burster, but unfortunately the pasta we buy in the supermarket today contains little in the way of health – it’s predominantly made up of refined white flour that contains almost no dietary goodness; it’s high GI, which results in a steep rise in insulin with the ultimate effect of increased fat storage.  A much better alternative would be brown rice, or if you really love your pasta then at least get brown pasta.  

The main point I’m making is that considering how much we push and demand performance from our bodies, it’s worth making the effort to ensure that you’re putting the right things back in!
 
So on that note, here’s an awesome banana loaf recipe that I’ve come up with, taking bits from a number of different recipes and changing the ingredients to suit what I wanted.  It’s mostly made of bananas, got no added fat or sugar, but to give it that little something special I add dark chocolate chips (60% cocoa).  It’s super easy to make, and I have a number of friends who can vouch for its extreme deliciousness!


Karen’s Super Banana Loaf

Ingredients
  • 6 medium / 5 large bananas
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 cups wholemeal flour
  • 1 ½ teaspoon bicarb of soda
  • 2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla essence
  • ½ cup raisins
  • ¼ cup dark chocolate chips

Mash the bananas.  Add the rest of the ingredients and mix it up.  Grease your banana loaf dish and pour the mixture in.  Bake at 160° Celsius for 80 minutes.




Monday 7 May 2012

Combating an Injury


The culprit route! "Fun in the Sun", 8a, Geyikbayiri, Turkey
Combating an injury is never easy, and the longer the projected recovery period the harder it is both mentally and physically.   That’s why it can often be a saving grace that you don’t know at the time of the injury exactly how long it’s going to be before you can climb again.  If someone told me when I dislocated my kneecap on an 8a route in Turkey last year that it would be 2 surgeries and 7 months before I would be able to climb again, I would never have been so upbeat and optimistic!  

Not being able to climb, or do the sport you love, is mentally very hard.  But not being able to climb, and constantly fighting it and wishing you were climbing, is even more mentally draining.  What I’ve learnt from my experience with injuries that have taken me out of climbing not just for weeks, but for many months and even up to a year, is to let go of the want and need to climb, accept what is, and find other ways to express and release yourself.  Don’t be swallowed whole by the seemingly infinite recovery time, take things day by day and have faith that when you do finally start climbing again, you will (hopefully) look back on the time out and realize that it wasn’t that bad.  Heck, maybe it was even good for your body! :)

The day after the injury - getting a flight back to the UK
I’m not sure who started the trend, but it seems like the way to go in life is use our experiences to help us grow as people.  And having had the last 6 months to reflect on an injury (once again!), I’ve realized they are a big growing point.

Have you ever really stopped and thought about what your body is doing so easily and effortlessly for you?  Take it away and I can assure you will appreciate everything in a whole new light.  Right now while I’m typing this I’m acutely aware of the fact that I’m sitting normally with my leg bent at 90 degrees, and it’s feeling comfortable with no pain!  I can walk up stairs.  I can drive a car.  I can sleep on my side at night.  I can go to the movies. I can kneel (but still can’t sit back onto my heels).  All of these things which I took for granted before now feel like a luxury. :)

2 month climbing trip to South Africa - spent by the pool instead!
My point being, an injury helps us to appreciate both the big, and the small, things in life.  I’ve found I don’t take as much for granted anymore, I have a bigger awareness for what I have been blessed with, and how much could be taken away all too easily.